Herbed Mashed Peas for spring (and those impatient for it)

Surprise crocuses popped up in the garden, and my mom (a real gardener, while I'm just a person with a garden outside) confirmed that they're usually the earliest bloomers -- capable of breaking through snow.

If the flowers can forge ahead toward spring, so can I. In the absence of much good produce yet, I tried Herbed Mashed Peas, a bright green ode to the first inklings of springtime.

I've seen recipes for this a few places recently. Mint is the most common herb used, but seemed a bit too summery for January -- maybe I'll try in July. Most recommended serving with fish, but I had Mark Bittman's porkchops (I peppered heavily) in white wine.

Herbed Mashed Peas

You could probably figure this out based on the title alone, but here's an official recipe. :)

• 20 oz frozen peas
• 1 T butter
• A generous amount of pea-compatible herbs. Try: 1/3 C fresh chopped mint, chives, or dill; 2 T chopped fresh basil + 1 T chopped fresh tarragon; or 1 T red pepper flakes + 1 tsp cumin + a couple roasted garlic cloves.

Melt butter in a large pan over medium. Add herbs, stirring till fragrant. Add peas, and stir gently until heated through (will take a few minutes, but do not overheat -- you want mashed peas, not mush). Puree in a food processor till coarsely mashed. Serve warm.

Via Tribunali: Buon Compleanno!

We've traded the cake and clowns for wine and buffalo mozzarella, but we have not outgrown the grade-school norm of pizza for birthday parties. Both times I've been to Via Tribunali, it's been for someone's annual celebration.

Photo from Via Tribunali

The newest location of the mini chain is a little outside the heart of Fremont, near a yoga studio, bookstores, and other neighborhoody spaces -- meaning more cozy than the weekend drunkenness of the Ballroom/Red Door region.

If Northlake is Seattle's strongest pizza institution (my mom's generation of Huskies frequented the tavern for heavy-weight slices piled precariously with topping), Via Tribunali is the best of the contemporary Neopolitan-style opposition: An average eater can devour an entire 10/12" pizza easily. Super-thin crust, restrained mostly-traditional toppings (meats, cheeses). The red sauce is awesome: a semi-sheer bright coating of perfect tomato. Other restaurants do the same thing, but none so well.

Plus, the big tables open for reservation, the mid-range prices, and the ideal balance between interesting/unusual ingredients and pizza's mass appeal make it a pretty great bet for your grown-up soiree. Feel free to provide funfetti cake -- we're getting old, but not boring.

Dumplings, rediscovered

Dumplings evoke ultimate old-world kitchen charm: they seem to exist everywhere, from potstickers to pirogi, matzo to gnocchi. Drop dough -- shaped, filled, flavored, or plain -- into a hot liquid, and there you have it: Dumplings, just like grandma made (whether she made them in Armenia or Korea).

Also, "comfort, value and simplicity" are really hot right now. The very definition of dumpling.

Still, I was hesitant to write about dumplings. I mean, really? Is this soggy biscuit worth documenting? But these are delicious -- think mid-century American Sunday supper. Awesome comfort food, showing some semblance of planning and effort (but really requiring very little of either). A more contemporary version might include whole-wheat flour or different spices and herbs, but for now this will be a staple.

Still have turkey in the freezer from Thanksgiving? Defrost it. You might reduce the initial cooking time by 5 or so minutes, if using leftovers -- just make sure the sauce still reduces to the desired consistency.

Chicken and Dumplings

From Everyday Food.

For chicken + sauce:

• 3 T butter
• 1 onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 5 carrots, cut crosswise into 1 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 1/4 C flour
• 14 oz low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs (or turkey), in large pieces
• 10 oz frozen peas

For dumplings:

• 3/4 C flour
  
• 2 T chopped fresh dill, or 3/4 tsp dried dill weed
• 1 3/4 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 C + 2 T milk

In a Dutch oven, heat butter over medium. Add onion, carrots, and thyme. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft. Add 1/4 C flour and stir briefly; add broth. Stirring constantly, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Arrange chicken in pot. Cover and simmer 20 minutes.

Now dumplings: In a bowl, whisk 3/4 cup flour, 1 3/4 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp salt, and dill. Stir in 1/2 C milk. Dough/batter should be very soft -- if it will not plop readily from a spoon, add additional 2 T milk.

Come back to the pot. Stir in peas. Drop dumplings on top, evenly-spaced, in 10 large tablespoons. (I use this medium cookie scoop, which keeps everything evenly sized.) Cover. Simmer 20 minutes, till dumplings are just firm -- they'll still look soft, certainly not baked, but should be delightfully fluffy to eat.

Coarse and unrefined? You must have me mistaken for another vegetable.

Celery root is not an attractive item, but I highly recommend you put aside your shallow prejudices and get out the blender. This is delicious. If you're skeptical of the lumpy, brownish root, remember that nothing fails when pureed with butter and cream.

Celery Root Puree

Adapted from Serious Eats.

• 1 medium celery root, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 or 2 small potatoes (about 6 ounces), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 apple (Granny Smith suggested), peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1/2 C heavy cream
• 2 T butter
• Salt and pepper

Place celery root and potatoes in a large pot of salted water and bring to a boil. Boil 10 minutes, then add the apple and continue boiling until all are tender (5-10 minutes).

Strain vegetables, then stir around in dry pot over medium heat for a moment, to steam off any excess water. Stir in cream and butter. Puree in a food processor or with an immersion blender (stirring once or twice to ensure no lumps hide in the corners of the pot). Season generously with salt, more gently with pepper, dot with a few tiny pats of butter (why not?) and serve.

You know, this reminds me of another magical transformation -- brownish, gnarly creature to delightful accompaniment (plus the buttery yellow of a Disney ball gown). Let's sing together. "Tale as old as time! Song as old as rhyme ... "

So This is the New Year

Check out these ingredient inspired calendars by Claudia Pearson on Etsy. These quirky and playful illustrations would look fantastic in kitchen or office. When it's time for a new 2011 calendar simply crop off the calendar portion and frame the illustrations. Viola! Instant art!

Also available as a 12-month tea towel! There was only a a few left when I last checked so snatch one up soon!